My Backyard: Destinations
Work Up an Appetite in Kelowna, British Columbia
By Mitchell Scott
Jan 1, 2006, 09:05

Small-town Canada and culture are two terms you don’t usually hear in the same sentence. But you will here. Seated halfway between British Columbia’s jagged Coast Mountains and the province’s sky-high Selkirks is Kelowna, a busy town at the edge of Canada’s only desert region, where wine, fruit and vegetables are cultivated in abundance. The settlement of 105,000 embodies all that BC has to offer: small town sensibilities blended with uptown tastes, recreation opportunities that run the gamut and, thanks to the growing recognition of Okanagan wineries, a certain class that makes a trip here worth your while.

Work Up an Appetite

Freeride Smith Creek Gruel and Fish Mabel Lake
The Smith Creek Gruel, or Holy Pail, represents the new mountain bike paradigm invading BC. The stunts, jumps and general technical difficulty of this 11-mile singletrack loop are not to be missed. (Map: Mountain Bike Trails of the Wild West). After big adrenaline on the bike, consider dropping a line for big rainbows and lake trout in nearby Mabel Lake. Visit www.kelownafishingcharters.com  for fully guided fishing excursions that start at $250 (CAD) for two people.

Photo courtesy of Casa Loma Lakeshore Resort

Mountain Bike The McDougall Rim Trail
and Hike Okanagan Mountain Park
Just a short drive from downtown Kelowna, the 14-mile loop takes riders on an hour-and-a-half climb followed by a fast and flowy hour-and-a-half singletrack ridgeline descent. For a map of the route, stop by Kelowna Cycle (250-762-2453) and purchase the Mountain Bike Trails of the Wild West trail map ($5 CAD). After the ride, strap on the hikers and hit Myra Canyon, a fascinating walk on old railroad trestles and through the recovering forests of Okanagan Mountain Park, which was hit by a massive forest fire in 2003. Stop by the Kelowna Info Centre (800-663-4345) for maps and info.

In Kelowna it’s all about proximity to the warm waters of Okanagan Lake. Casa Loma Lakeshore Resort ($100 [CAD] and up; 250-769-4630; www.casaloma.com) offers quiet cabins a literal stone’s throw from the water. An outdoor pool, kid’s playground, nearby hiking trails, tennis courts and boat rentals combine to make Casa Loma the primo locale for the adventuring couple or family. For a backcountry experience, camp at Okanagan Mountain Provincial Park ($9 [CAD] and up; 800-HELLOBC [435-5622]; www.hellobc.com).

Indulge

Eat: Roasted Lamb Sirloin on a Tea-and-Ginger Sauce at Bouchons in Kelowna
This fine French bistro recently received a Wine Spectator Magazine Award for its world-class wine list, and it’s rated one of Canada’s top 100 restaurants. Located in Kelowna’s Cultural District, Bouchons offers superb food and a dining experience more akin to an urban metropolis than a small city. $36 (CAD) and up for a three-course meal; 250-763-6595; www.bouchonsbistro.com .

Drink: Wine at Quails’ Gate Estate Winery
This winery and its Old Vines Patio (open year round) is a great lunch or dinner spot, offering a spectacular selection of wines and phenomenal food. Tastings and tours are available from May through the end of October. Quails’ Gate is one of the more famous wineries in the Okanagan Valley, which many wine aficionados call “the Napa of the North.” 250-769-4451; www.quailsgate.com .

Be Merry: Visit Kelowna Land & Orchard
Take a tour of a century-old working fruit orchard, then gorge at an open market or taste gourmet treats at The Ridge Restaurant (www.k-l-o.com/ridge ). Carmelis Goat Cheese Artisan (www.carmelisgoatcheese.com ) is another worthwhile stop for the senses. The resident goats, cheese sampling and tours of the farm make for an interesting afternoon for the eyes and the palate.