Work up an Appetite in Gallatin Canyon, Montana
By Doug Schnitzspahn
Jan 1, 2006, 08:55
There are two Montanas. The first is a wild place where you can still fish a strip of river without seeing another soul and trade rodeo stories from a barstool. The second is a New West stash of ski resorts, four-star restaurants and adrenaline hotspots for junkies looking for the latest outdoor rush. Nestled between the now-hip streets of Bozeman and the snowmobile tracks of West Yellowstone, the Gallatin Canyon embraces the best of Montana’s bipolar identity.
Work Up an Appetite
Climb Gallatin Canyon
The Canyon offers two very distinct flavors of rock. Traditionalists looking for classic, multi-pitch climbs should head to the east side of the river, where sheer walls of gneiss make for delicacies such as Skyline (5.6), an enjoyable six-pitch climb (ideal for your first multi-pitch lead climb), or Sparerib (5.8), a long, beautifully exposed, two-pitch line that will have you hungering for a whole rack of its namesake when you’re done. The nouveau sport-climbing crowd will find treats on the recently developed limestone walls of Scorched Earth, where you’ll work up an appetite on Child’s Play (5.9) or the dicey Unholy Act (5.11a). For more beta, contact Barrel Mountaineering in Bozeman
(406-582-1335; www.barrelmountaineering.com ).
Paddle or Fish the Gallatin River
The big thrill on the Gallatin River is House Rock rapids (class IV), but the rest of the river is class II-III and can be a blast for beginner to intermediate kayakers. Catch the latest info on river conditions and find killer closeout deals on paddling gear at Northern Light’s The Barn in Bozeman (406-585-2090; www.northernlightstrading.com or book a rafting trip with Montana Whitewater (800-799-4465; www.montanawhitewater.com ). If the flow is low, pick up a fly rod. The pocket water here can’t be beat. (It’s a better river to wade or bank-fish than the Madison or Yellowstone.) Wild Trout Outfitters in Big Sky (800-423-4742; www.wildtroutoutfitters.com ) can provide beta, flies and experienced guides.
Indulge
Eat: Wild Game at Buck’s T-4 Restaurant in Big Sky
You can’t visit a state that prides itself on its resident herds of elk, mule deer, antelope and buffalo without a taste of wild game. Staffed by local climbers, paddlers and anglers, Buck’s T-4 serves up one of the best culinary experiences in the state. Go all out carnivore and splurge for the wild game composition: a roasted elk chop, braised bison short ribs and grilled whole quail over chive spaetzle and a caramelized garlic game jus. It’s $39.50, but you may not have to eat again for a week. 800-822-4484; www.buckst4dining.com .
Drink: Wine at Rainbow Ranch Lodge south of Big Sky
You may not be able to afford a room at the Rainbow Ranch (upwards of $270/night in the summer) but you can sample from the 650 wines in the atmosphere of the Tuscany-meets-Wild West Bacchus Room. Too fancy-schmantzy? Head to the nearby Corral (406-995-4249; www.corralbar.com ) for a beer and onion rings. 800-937-4132; www.rainbowranch.com .
Be Merry: Try Rocky Mountain Oysters at 320 Ranch south of Big Sky
That adrenaline fix on the river not enough bragging rights? Try a true-grit Montana tradition. Order a plate of rocky mountain oysters (yes, bull testicles). They’re breaded and served with Dijon mustard to go down easier. $8; 800-243-0320; www.320ranch.com .
Digs
Neither overly fancy nor steeped in Western kitsch, Buck’s T-4 Lodge ($109 and up; 406-995-4111; www.buckst4.com ) is centrally located at the road up to Big Sky. Or, if you’d rather save your cash to eat like an oil-industry mogul, pitch a tent at one of the campgrounds along the river. Contact the Bozeman district of the Gallatin National Forest for information: 406-587-6701; www.fs.fed.us/r1/gallatin/ .
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