REGIONAL HIGHLIGHTS: The best of H20 in the Mountain West
By Gina DeMillo
Aug 1, 2005, 13:08
Best Water Town
Salmon, Idaho
Then god created the Salmon River, and paddlers everywhere said, “it is good.”
With more access to wilderness than any other town in the Lower 48 and some of the world’s top-ranked whitewater, Salmon, Idaho, is nothing to throw a spud at. It’s the gateway to the “River of No Return,” which churns up 230 miles of white-knuckle rapids as it winds through six national forests. It was here in 1805 that Lewis and Clark’s Corps of Discovery decided that the Salmon was impassible by canoe and headed up Lost Trail Pass instead.
Take a ride on the Middle Fork Salmon and you’ll pass through the massive Frank Church-River of No Return Wilderness. No less than nine hot springs are scattered along the way, offering plenty of chances to soothe sore muscles.
The steelhead and rainbow trout fishing is some of the best in the world, so you can keep your belly fed on the trail. And in good years from June to late July, Chinook salmon spawn in the gravel riverbeds. When you just can’t stand the solitude anymore, head back to town and eat at Bertram’s Brewery (208-756-3391), where pub fare and local brews are served up in a
smoke-free environment. If you go: www.cityofsalmon.com .
Hottest Water: Norris Geyser Basin, Wyoming
These springs aren’t for soaking. Named for the second superintendent of Yellowstone National Park, Norris is the hottest, most volatile thermal on the continent. A scientific team measured temperatures of 401° Fahrenheit just 265 feet below the earth’s surface. Considerable sulfur in the springs and geysers makes the water at Norris quite acidic. The heat has been blamed for killing lodgepole pine trees in the basin. 307-344-7381; www.nps.gov/yell .
Highest Lakes: Colorado
Eighty-nine percent of Colorado’s naturally occurring lakes are found at altitudes above 9,000 feet. www.colorado.com .
Most Common Name for a Stream: Clear Creek
Looks like our forefathers ran out of ideas when it came to naming mountain streams. A look at a handful of Western maps reveals that Colorado has 13 streams named Clear Creek, while Montana, Idaho and Wyoming claim more than a dozen others. www.usgs.gov .
Best Inland Sailing: Flathead Lake, Montana
This natural lake in northwest Montana contains nearly 200 square miles of water and 188 miles of shoreline, making it the largest natural lake in the West. Add a little mountain wind to all that surface area, and you have a sailors’ and windsurfers’ paradise. 406-982-3301; www.umt.edu/biology/flbs .
Shortest River: Roe River, Montana
Neck and-neck with Oregon’s D River for the title of shortest in the world, the Roe River flows near Great Falls and ranges from 58 to 200 feet in length, depending on the time of year. Ironically, the source for this small river is Giant Springs, the nation’s largest freshwater spring. www.visitmt.com.
Weirdest Natural Thermometer: Bacteria
You don’t need a thermometer to determine a hot spring’s temperature—just know your bacteria. Bright yellow colors indicate a temperature of about 160° Fahrenheit. Bright orange, 145° Fahrenheit. Pure green, 120° Fahrenheit. And if you see stringy pale yellow or pink strands, stay away. That water temperature could exceed 180° Fahrenheit. 307-344-7381;
www.yellowstonenationalpark.com.
Highest Geyser: Steamboat Geyser, Wyoming
This temperamental geyser is the highest in the world, although it’s been relatively quiet since 2000. At its prime, it spewed a stream as high as 400 feet. Old Faithful Geyser tops out at 184 feet. 307-344-7381; www.nps.gov/yell .
Most Hot Springs Per Capita: Idaho
With 232 hot springs statewide, it’s a wonder more Idahoans aren’t naked and pruney all the time. www.visitid.org .
Best Magic Trick: Sinks Canyon State Park, Wyoming
Just 6 miles south of Lander, Sinks Canyon is home to the Middle Fork of the Popo Agie, which flows out of the Wind River Mountains. Halfway through the canyon, the river turns into a large limestone cavern, where the crashing water literally disappears into fissures and cracks at the back of the cave. The river continues underground for a quarter mile until it emerges down canyon in a large calm pool called “The Rise.” From there, it continues its course into the valley below. 307-332-3077; http://wyoparks.state.wy.us/sinks1.htm .
Best Water Playground: Ice Lakes Basin, Silverton, Colorado
Not only do the San Juan Mountains outside of Silverton offer quality water adventures, they boast an unmatched quantity of options. High alpine lakes? Got ’em. Waterfalls? You bet. Fly fishing? Sure. Paddling? No problem. 800-752-4494; www.silvertoncolorado.com .
Biggest Water Victory: Baca Ranch, Colorado
Spanning an area larger than Connecticut, Colorado’s San Luis Valley is home to the tallest sand dunes in North America, vast wetlands and a rich aquifer. That aquifer was a source of controversy for years, as neighboring towns battled for rights to use the water. Thanks to hardworking groups like The Nature Conservancy, last year half the area was named a National Wildlife Refuge, with another section being folded into the new Great Sand Dunes National Park. One of the significant aspects of this new national park’s creation is its ability to protect the overall ecosystem, including groundwater. 303-444-2950; www.nature.org .
Best Trout Stream: North Platte, Wyoming
It may not have the mythic allure of Montana’s famed rivers or the gilded
location of Aspen’s Fryingpan, but Wyoming’s North Platte River is home to some of the fattest fish in the West. Head to the “The Miracle Mile”—a 5.5-mile stretch between the Kortes Dam and Pathfinder Reservoir—which has one of the highest concentrations of trophy-sized fish per mile in the US. For the biggest browns, we suggest you fish with big patterns at night, when you’ll also avoid the crowds. Find guides and beta at the Ugly Bug Fly Shop in Casper: 866-UGLYBUG (845-9284); www.crazyrainbow.net .
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