Wine Country locals brag not of their 4-year-olds’ prowess on the soccer field but of how well refined their palettes are. Only here in northern Sonoma County, they do so without the pretentiousness that can plague Napa and Sonoma central. And after the grapes have been crushed and the goat’s milk creamed, they put down their tools and pick up their outdoor toys. With nine state parks and reserves folded within the ambling hills of vineyards, the only question for visitors is which trail, wine room and restaurant to choose.
Work Up an Appetite
Hike Armstrong Redwoods State Reserve, Guerneville
Grapes thrive in a hot, dry climate, so the cool, lush paths among coastal redwoods that flank Sonoma County’s western edge seem like something of an anomaly, but they’re ideal for hiking. A good 4.1-mile hike climbs out of Armstrong’s valley, leaving the 300-foot-tall trees on the East Ridge Trail for a well-maintained path that leads to a ridgeline saddle in the adjoining Austin Creek State Recreation Area. Catch your breath while gulping in views before dropping back down into the redwoods on the Pool Ridge Trail; you’ll finish in time to grab a quick shower before an afternoon wine tasting. 707-869-2015; www.parks.ca.gov .
Mountain Bike Annadel State Park, Santa Rosa
Tour de France star Levi Leipheimer is no fool. He lives here because Sonoma features some of the best cycling in the country, and when he’s tired of asphalt, he heads to this 45-mile labyrinth of off-road terrain, roughly 75 percent of which is singletrack. Armored downhillers, geared-up Bay Area riders and shirtless locals on rigid frames all tackle the rickety Cobblestone, scenic Marsh and bobsled-worthy Two Quarry trails. The trails interconnect for countless loops of different lengths and guarantee you’ll leave with a grin on your face and a patina of soft khaki dirt on your frame. 707-539-3911; www.parks.ca.gov .
Indulge
Eat: Margherita pizza at Bovolo in Healdsburg
Pizza is pizza, right? Not this dream pie. The ingredients are not revolutionary (mozzarella, basil, tomatoes), but Chef John Stewart, who helped establish cred with nearby swanky success, Zazu, wanted to provide a gourmet café-style option among the four-coursers of the county. He makes the thin dough daily, gets the mozzarella from a specialty boutique in San Francisco and plucks the heirloom tomatoes and basil from a farm in town. You can taste his diligence with your first bite. $15.50 for a 12-inch; 707-431-2962.
Drink: Wine at Passalacqua Winery in Healdsburg
Northern Sonoma boasts many of the heavy hitters like Kendall Jackson and Korbel, but the best part about visiting this region is discovering small, family-run operations like Passalacqua, whose wines are only available on-site. After running through their complimentary tastings, have them uncork the bottle you liked best and enjoy a picnic accompanied by cascading stone fountains under one of the shaded pergolas. 877-825-5547; www.passalacquawinery.com .
Be Merry: Seasonal Crème Brulée at Zin Restaurant & Wine Bar in Healdsburg
Those hours on the trail earn you a serving of crème brulée, tweaked seasonally with fresh berries or pumpkin from the chef’s garden. $7; 707-473-0946; www.zinrestaurant.com .
Digs
Wine country lends itself to splurges, and there’s no better place than the 12-room Grape Leaf Inn ($200 and up; 866-433-8140; www.grapeleafinn.com ), within walking distance to the Healdsburg Plaza. End your day with a long soak in the two-person Japanese-style spa tub, and wake to the smells of a gourmet, four-course breakfast. If you’re on a budget, five of the nine state parks in the county offer car camping ($12 and up; www.parks.ca.gov ).
