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Archives and Online Features : My Backyard: Destinations

REGIONAL HIGHLIGHTS: Canada
By Mark Schatzker
2005 Nov (Vol. 7, No. 6)

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Oh, Vertical: Lake Louise offers classy digs and sick steeps. Photo by Henry Georgi
Huck like a Canuck
Lake Louise, Alberta

Skiing at Lake Louise is defined by a single and all-important word: vertical. The mountain is high—8,650 feet—and serves up to 3,250 feet of verts, all serviced by 11 lifts. But it’s the snow that really matters, and, thanks to the high altitude, the white stuff round these parts is as light and dry as you’ll find—nothing like the wet cement that falls out on the coast. And, there’s plenty of it. More than 179 inches per year blanket 4,200 acres of skiable terrain. Finally, the mountain’s northerly latitude makes for a long season. Runs open in early November and don’t close until early May. But what’s truly unparalleled is the view. It’s so amazing they turned the area and surrounding acres into a seriously protected national park called Banff. Beginners can enjoy the scenery too, because several green runs start near the summit.

The tradeoff for such a jaw-dropping wilderness ski experience? It takes a little effort to get there. Fly into nearby Calgary, though, and the journey is relatively easy—115 miles west by car or bus. If you go: 800-258-7669; www.skilouise.com.



Around the clock: Lake Louise
8 a.m.
Start early with coffee from Laggan’s Bakery in Lake Louise Village (403-522-2017). They bake killer muffins and legendary cheese buns, which go down well on the lift ride up.

9 a.m.
Take the Summit Platter lift and get first tracks in the gullies and bowls that run off the backside. Many of these runs are double-blacks, but a fresh layer of snow softens their bite considerably.

12:30 p.m.
Lunch. The only thing that outdoes the epic burgers at Temple Lodge are the jaw-dropping views.

2 p.m.
Head to Meadowlark, accessed via the Grizzly Express Gondola. It’s a cruiser’s cruiser if ever there was one.

4:30 p.m.
Make your way to the town of Banff, past the sushi restaurants and jewelry shops and hit Rose and Crown (403-762-2121), an English-style pub, for a well-deserved pint.


Three in One
Sun Peaks Resort, British Columbia

You drive a minivan, have a mortgage and more gray hairs than you can count, but that’s not what’s bothering you. Your problem is finding the right mountain for a family trip. Here’s a solution—take them to three. Specifically, the three mountains that make up Sun Peaks Resort. Sundance Mountain is one big groomed cruiser, perfect for beginners and those just mastering the parallel turn. Mount Morrisey may have the world’s best glade. (Think trees, but with enough room in between to carve.) And for the pro in your family—whether it’s you or your 13-year-old, who can now officially kick your ass at everything—there’s Tod Mountain, which is steep, has lots of open bowls and is where you want to be when there’s powder (which is often). When you’ve had enough of skiing, there’s plenty yet to do, like tube, skate or go dog sledding. 800-807-3257; www.sunpeaksresort.com.

Best of the East
Mont Sainte Anne, Quebec
With more than 2,000 feet of vertical and 13 feet of snowfall every season, Mont Sainte Anne easily holds its own with the best of the East. But thanks to the mountain’s 13 lifts, which include an eight-passenger gondola and two high-speed quads, you’ll rack up more vertical than you thought possible. For those who go Nordic, the area boasts 212 kilometers (132 miles) of trails—the second most on the continent—including 125 kilometers (78 miles) of skate track. (Not that you have to do it all in one day.) Stay at the Auberge du Fondeur, a trailside B&B with seven heated shelters, a sauna and kitchen. 800-463-1568; www.mont-sainte-anne.com.


Last Updated: Feb 24th, 2006 - 14:18:11
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